ROD CARE

Carbon & Nano Carbon Rods — Performance, Care & Getting the Most from Your Hamachi

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Why Carbon and Nano Carbon Outperform Fibreglass

True carbon and nano carbon rods are a significant step up from fibreglass. They cast further with better control, impart far more lifelike action to jigs and lures, recover faster under load — which matters enormously when you are fighting a serious fish — and are substantially lighter, reducing fatigue during full-day sessions on poppers or jigs.

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The one thing they do not tolerate is being treated like fibreglass.

Ultra-high modulus nano carbon blanks — such as those used in our flagship XOS GT'n'Doggie series — are engineered to deliver maximum performance within the line angles used by experienced anglers. Understood and respected, they will outfish and outlast almost anything else available. Abused, they will break.

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Our Break Rate — and What Causes It

We see very few broken Hamachi rods — a fraction of a per cent of all rods sold. That figure reflects our rigorous manufacturing and testing standards: every rod is inspected, ultrasonically scanned, and load tested.

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The breaks we do see fall into two categories.

The first is anglers transitioning from fibreglass who haven't yet adjusted to the rules of carbon — typically breaks in the top third of the blank from point loading or high-sticking.

 

The second is storage damage: a rod that takes a knock in transit or in a rod locker and breaks the next time it is loaded under pressure.

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Our premium mid-range series — the Zenku Super Nano and Nano Xylimum Xtreme — use lower modulus blanks. The trade-off is that they don't reach the ultra-high performance and weight savings of our flagship range, but they will tolerate the occasional accidental knock or point load that would damage a high-modulus blank.

With a little care, any Hamachi nano carbon rod will outlast you. Many on our team travel extensively and push the XOS GT'n'Doggie series to its absolute limits — none of us have ever broken one. Including when we've tried.

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Maximum Performance — and How to Avoid Breaking Your Rod

Hamachi rods are built to fish consistently at their maximum performance rating. To get there, your gear needs to be in order.

Maintain your drag. Always use a reel with a smooth, regularly serviced drag. Set your drag at or below the rod's maximum drag rating (listed on every product page). If in doubt, set it at one-third of the rod's PE line rating.

Understand your line angle. This is the single most important thing to know about fishing a carbon rod.

• 0–45 degrees — maximum power zone. This is where the rod performs at its best.

• 45–60 degrees — power is significantly reduced. If fishing in this range, reduce drag to the rod's lower rating.

• Above 60 degrees — high risk of point loading and breakage in the top third of the blank. Do not fish here.

Note: point loading does not always cause an immediate break. It can cause internal structural damage that goes undetected, then fails under light pressure at a later date. Light tackle rods that break from point loading will often snap first in the top third, then — with the sudden change in load and line angle — snap again lower down.

Point loading is user abuse and is not covered under warranty.

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The Pump and Wind Technique

Hamachi rods are designed for pump and wind — the most effective method for bringing a fish boatside.

Between the fish's runs (when it is no longer taking line), pull the rod up to 45 degrees to draw line towards you then lower the rod tip to zero degrees or below and wind in the slack as you do. As you feel the rod load up again, stop winding and lift the rod to 45 degrees — pumping the fish toward you. Lower the tip immediately and wind in the slack. Repeat.

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If the fish makes hard, surging runs, lower the rod tip toward the fish — this is called bowing the rod. It negates any stickiness in the drag or braid binding on the reel under pressure.

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Japanese jig & popper/spin rods are designed to be fished with the butt section tucked under the armpit it enables the rod to be worked from below zero degrees comfortably to 45 or 60 degrees driving the most power from the rod, Western techniques where the rod is fished from hip has the anglers forearm already making zero degrees difficult and the natural position once the rod is pumped is between 60 and 90 degrees often more than 90 with long rods. Of course you can fish a Japanese rod from the hip however you need to acutely aware of not exceeding 60 degrees.

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Setting the hook — avoid high strike actions. If you have sharp hooks they set themselves with firm load, if they pull into a bone a hard strike will only curl the hook point and ensure the fish is drop, firm pressure allows the sharp point to slide and set elsewhere. If the hook is set in the lip a hard strike will only serve to tear and pull it out.

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Point the tip at the fish, take up the slack with the reel, and strike with constant smooth and firm pressure within the 0–45 degree range. You'll be using the power section of the rod and the hooks will set far more effectively than with a tip strike.

Landing fish — always use a net or gaff. Never use the rod to lift a fish. Back the drag off before gaffing or netting in case the fish surges.

Snagged lines — put the reel in free spool, rest the rod in a holder and handline to free the snag. If the rod must be used, point it directly at the snag and apply pressure through the reel only. Never use the rod tip to pull a snagged line free.

Spooling reels — avoid spooling reels using a carbon rod. If there is no alternative, use only the first guide closest to the reel seat — never load the tip.

Transport — always use rod protectors. Never store or transport rods where other items can contact the blank.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​